Weekend in London
We took ourselves off to London for a weekend recently and thoroughly enjoyed the experience. Our last trip, a few years ago, was to celebrate the birthday of a brother who lives there and didn’t afford much time to explore or shop. So it’s been a while since we’ve done either. We certainly made up for it this trip. We’d forgotten just how much there is to see, do and experience in London. We took an early morning flight on the Friday, to give us the whole day and we left it until after seven o’ clock on the Sunday evening to fly home to maximise our time.
With weekend breaks to many other European capitals a lot more affordable in the past few years, perhaps, like us, you haven’t been to London for a while. We certainly found it well worth the visit, so much so that we’re planning a return trip before Christmas.
How We Got There
We travelled with City Jet from Dublin and found the service prompt and pleasant. We flew into City airport, a little more expensive than Stansted or Heathrow we know, but worth it, we feel, for ease of access to the city. The flight left right on time, service on board was courteous and efficient and we landed 15 minutes ahead of schedule. One of the major pluses is City’s smaller terminal building in London, it’s literally a short stroll from the plane to reclaim baggage. On our flight, because most of the passengers were businessmen flying to London for the day with only hand luggage, ours were the only two cases on the baggage carousel which started up and delivered them to us within a couple of minutes of disembarkation. Our return flight on Sunday was equally efficient.
Where We Stayed
We booked our hotel with lastminute.com taking the leap of faith that requires booking first and then finding out where it is we’d be staying. We hit the jackpot as it turned out, getting the five-star Grange St. Paul’s Hotel, right beside St. Paul’s Cathedral and very handy for a host of places we wanted to visit. The price was €238 for a twin room for two nights, room only. Our twin room turned out to be quite sumptuous with two queen sized beds, plenty of space and a luxury bathroom complete with complimentary Moulton Browne toiletries. Breakfast in their dining room was 20 pounds sterling so we eschewed that in favour of a lovely café right next door which, for a fiver, served every bit as substantial fare to start the day.
Staying so close to St. Paul’s Cathedral was a real plus as, illuminated at night, it served as a beacon to guide us back to the hotel when we’d a few drinks on board and might otherwise been unsure of our bearings! There was the added bonus of hearing the lovely rich sound of the church bells pealing on Sunday morning.
What We Saw
by Grainne
On the Friday morning, after dispensing with our luggage, we left our hotel, taking the Millennium Bridge a stone’s throw away to cross over onto Bankside, on the southern bank of the Thames to peruse its many attractions, museums and galleries, shops and restaurants that stretches from Blackfriars Bridge to London Bridge.
The 10-year-old pedestrian-only steel suspension bridge offers great views of many of London’s landmark buildings, including the iconic ‘Gherkin’ building among the modern, and that epitome of the traditional, Tower Bridge. The Millennium Bridge featured in the film ‘Harry Potter and the Half Blood Prince’ being destroyed by some of the Death Eaters of Lord Voldemort.
The Tate Modern sits at the southern end of the bridge, near the Globe Theatre. We felt obliged to pay a visit rather than pass by but, neither of us being fans of much contemporary or abstract art, and finding little here to change our minds, we didn’t linger long.
A boardwalk stretches along much of the Bankside route overlooking the river; it turns into paved walkways at other parts and meanders strollers in and out through alleyways, under railway bridges and across cobblestone stretches best negotiated in flat shoes.
Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre is an impressive thatched-building, built in the early 1990s on the site of the original Globe. It’s construction was funded by the Shakespeare Globe Trust set up by the American actor and director Sam Wanamaker. It opened in 1997. It houses an exhibition about Shakespeare and the theatre of his time; features theatre productions and serves as a forum for the study of Shakespeare in performance. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to stop by on the day we were there as we had a lunch date but we resolved to do so on our next trip.
Hay’s Galleria was one of London’s most famous wharfs back in the 1900s that’s been restored so that visitors can now shop, dine and just soak up the ambience on the same spot where the famed tea clippers from China and India docked a century and a half ago. The huge atrium is particularly lovely here.
Moored in the Thames along this stretch is the HMS Belfast, a museum ship, operated by the Imperial War Museum. Originally a Royal Navy light cruiser that served during the Korean War and Second World War, it was built in Belfast. Queues to visit were long on the day we were there so we pressed ahead.
Other attractions along the way include the Bankside Gallery, The Rose Theatre, Southwark Cathedral and Borough Market and there’s an array of shops and restaurants interspersed.
Borough Market is renowed, attracting chefs and restauranteurs, gastronomes and the likes me Aine and me, who just love eating and drinking!
On the go now for over a decade, it operates on Thursdays from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., on Fridays from 12 p.m. to 6 p.m. and all day on Saturday, from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. We left it until Saturday morning to visit and while it was very crowded, it just added to the buzz and atmosphere.
The range of foods on offer is staggering with most of the stallholders the ones who grow, rear, bake or otherwise produce the goods themselves. It’s busy, vibrant and noisy, thrumming with sights and sounds, a veritable feast for all the senses.
“Epicurean ecstasy!” Aine declared it, murmuring with pleasure as she went from stall to stall, eagerly sampling the free bits and pieces stallholders happily proffered. Delicious-tasting pates, preserves, chutneys and cheeses from artisan producers vied with an amazing array of fresh breads and mouthwatering pastries and cakes and other homemade sweet confections for our attention. Traditional and organic butchers offered everything from pigs’ heads and trotters to jellied meats, ostrich meat, rabbit and hare. One stall was doing a roaring trade selling dishes of paella, Thai green curry and chicken curry from huge vats.
There were juices and smoothies of every conceivable mixture and taste, a variety of soups and seafood. The fruit and vegetable and flower stalls were a riot of colour and featured a staggering array of produce and blooms.
Aine and I spent an hour and a half there and would have happily stayed for longer. We came away with a goat’s cheese and sun-dried tomato tart for Aine’s lunch, a Camembert and leek quiche for mine, a bunch of dried Lavendar blooms (Aine) 15 pounds worth of homemade Turkish Delight (me!) and a slab of homemade burnt sugar nougat (Aine). That’s after slurping our way through an organic orange juice (Aine) and a cranberry and orange juice (me) and free samples of various sausages, hams, cheeses, chutneys and preserves, breads, Baklava and other sweet treats.
Can’t recommend this market highly enough.
Our Bankside walk culminated on Tower Bridge, one of the world’s most recognizable bridges. Completed in 1894, it’s imposing Victorian Gothic design is as impressive as ever. 11 thousand tonnes of steel went into its making. On the far side waited my son, one of the many young Irish men who’s gone to London in recent months to find work, having lost his job at home. We went for lunch to a nearby pub where we mused as we ate at the English’s penchant for quaffing pints over their lunch before returning to work. Does it aid afternoon productivity or detract from it, I wondered? We were agreed that, it’s precisely because we Irish like our drink so much that we don’t imbibe at lunchtime. Otherwise we’d never return to work in the afternoons……
The son proved an enthusiastic and energetic guide for the remainder of our weekend, accompanying us on our quest to fit in as much as possible of the sights, sounds, tastes and experiences of London.
The Big Bus Company Bus Tour of London
By Aine
We took a sight-seeing bus tour of London. Now I had done the whole bus-tour touristy thing there before, but Grainne hadn’t, and, as it was a few years since I had done it and it’s the best way of fitting a lot of sightseeing into a tight schedule, I agreed to accompany her for the craic.
The morning itself was not great, a bit breezy with drizzly rain, but, undaunted, Grainne and I braved the elements and headed for the top deck to facilitate Grainne’s penchant for taking photos!
The bus tour costs £25 each and lasts about two and a half hours. A free river cruise is included in the price. The bus tour is worth every penny as it provides a great vantage point for so many of the sights of London and is also useful for getting one’s bearings. We were given headphones to listen to the commentary which was really informative and added to our enjoyment of the tour.
You can also hop on, hop off the bus as the fancy takes you. So then, what did we see? St. Paul’s cathedral (very close to where we were staying as Grainne has mentioned.) This magnificent cathedral has stood on the site for 300 years and was Sir Christopher Wren’s masterpiece. Both Wellington and Nelson are buried in the crypt here.
Our tour also took in the Tower of London, home to the crown jewels. We saw the London Eye, Kensington Palace, (home to members of the royal family for 300 years). We passed over Tower Bridge which we’d traversed on foot earlier that morning, we saw Westminster Abbey, Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, Buckingham Palace and St. James’s Palace, Marble Arch and Hyde Park, including the famous Speaker’s Corner. We also had a bird’s eye view of Kensington Gardens which now houses the Princess Diana Memorial fountain. We passed by 10 Downing Street, Trafalgar Square (with the fabulous National Gallery nearby.) We went through Piccadilly Circus and Covent Garden.
We were doing really well, but were a little cold and damp when our bus came to a stop and we had to change buses half way through the tour. We decided to stay downstairs (which was a great deal warmer!) for the second leg of the tour.
However, we hadn’t bargained on the tour guide who replaced our recorded commentary on this leg of the tour. According to the Visit London website “The Company’s guides and commentary are excellent, blending humour, information and interaction. Spontaneous, entertaining and never dull, the guide provides a raft of unusual information to hold the attention. . Not the fella we got though!
Our guide was overbearing and seemed to articulate just about every thought that entered his head, many of which really weren’t worth sharing. His rasping voice and inane comments really began to grate and we longed to plug back in our headphones and listen instead to the taped commentary. Because our guide was so interested in imparting information about himself and telling bad jokes, he actually was late in pointing out various landmarks and we had passed them and had to look backwards to see what he obviously thought was so much less interesting than himself!
The irritating guide aside, this tour was excellent. London seems to have spruced up a bit since I last visited some years ago. I remember on my last trip there thinking the place looked very grimy, but some of the older buildings have been sand-blasted and cleaned up and the city looks much better for it.
The place was awash with tourists also, even though England, like ourselves, is in a recession. Judging though by the number of cranes dotting the skyline all across the city, it would seem they are on the upturn. And of course there’s the massive construction of the infrastructure and venues for the 2012 Olympics that’s underway.
So if you are heading to London for a short break, you could do far worse than take in the Big Bus tour. They also sell cut price tickets for some of the more famous attractions. You can ask your guide about these.
London Dungeon
By Aine
It was difficult to choose what to see and do in London as there was just so much variety on offer. So it was a toss up between the National Gallery and the London dungeon. After much discussion we decided on the latter.
Grainne purchased the tickets (cut-price) from the tour guide on the Big Bus Tour. They cost £12 each but the usual admission price if you queue up is a whopping £22.50.
We joined the ‘Priority’ queue as we already had our tickets but still the queue was 25 minutes long. The other queue for people to purchase tickets was at least an hour long.
London Dungeon consists of 12 short set pieces with ‘live’ actors and special effects. The tour culminates in two scary rides.
Basically we were brought from room to room (or dungeon to dungeon) where various actors tried to scare us witless. We started off in the Crypt which set the scene for what was to come. An actor, a chap not unlike Russell Brand, told us of the “horrors” that would soon be unleashed upon us before opening a door and sending us into the ‘Labyrinth of the Lost’, a maze of mirrors, very cleverly done, with seemingly no way out. We did, however, find freedom eventually and moved into another dungeon which had as its theme the Great Plague, with bodies scattered around in varying degrees of decomposition. Very gory, not to mention realistic.
From here we were guided to the torture chamber, an equally unsavoury place as you can imagine, again with what looked like bodies tied up in different ways with entrails hanging out and horrible life-like wounds and injuries. Definitely not for the faint-hearted.
We proceeded to the Courtroom where we were sentenced for our misdeeds, but not before we were taken into the infamous barber shop of Sweeney Todd of Fleet Street who was renowned for cutting more than hair!
Next we were educated about the great fire of London which took place on 2nd September, 1666 and which, in one day, left over 200,000 people homeless and destitute.
There was a fairly plausible mock up of the dark alleyway in Whitechapel where Jack the Ripper killed five prostitutes on his murderous reign in 1888.
This year a new ‘attraction’ has been added, based on Bloody Queen Mary, daughter of Henry the 8th, who spent her time ridding the country of supposed heretics by burning them at the stake.
The tour finished off with two rides, which unfortunately Grainne and myself had to skip, as time was catching up on us and we had to return to our hotel to change and go for dinner before heading to the West End to see Oliver.
The London dungeon tour was ok, a bit expensive for what it was, it would work out expensive a family of four for example, and I found it all a bit lame. When you’ve experienced the special effects of Universal studios and Disney in the US or Paris, London dungeon doesn’t live up to expectations.
Save yourself time and money and look up London dungeon website and take the virtual tour……. you’ll see just as much as we did and you can read the blurb for the history bits!!
After Dark
Oliver
A lively re-working of the old reliable
By Aine
Before Grainne and I went on our recent weekend trip to London I decided to book tickets for the popular west-end musical “Oliver” which was on at the Royal Drury Lane theatre.
I booked the tickets online through lastminute.com. When we arrived at the theatre I was disappointed with the allocated seats, as they were very far back in the auditorium and, at a cost of £37.50 each, weren’t cheap. I have to admit however that we did have a good view of everything that happened on stage, despite the location of the seats.
The stage set was absolutely fabulous, really amazing, and the speed and ease of each scene change was nothing short of miraculous.
All the old familiar Lionel Bart songs, “I’d Do Anything”, “As Long As He Needs Me”, “Consider Yourself” “Food Glorious Food” etc. were great to hear again.
Griff Rhys Jones was playing the part of “Fagin” and he was wonderful in the role, bringing to it some of his own comedy genius (he even threw in a topical line or two about bankers and pension funds!)
Jodie Prenger played the part of “Nancy”. You may remember she won the part through the BBC’s television programme “I’d Do Anything”. I wasn’t mad about her singing, she was great when performing on her own but when singing with the chorus her voice seemed to be drowned out, perhaps it was the fault of her microphone, I’m not sure.
Likewise the performance of the chap that played Bill Sykes (Steven Hartley) was disappointing. He had a very low gravelly voice, it actually sounded like he had an acute sore throat, and I found it difficult to listen to him. I remember seeing Oliver Reed playing the part of Bill Sykes in the movie version of Oliver and he was perfect, bringing the right amount of menace to the part!
The artful dodger, played by Jacques Miche, put in a tremendous performance, and Edward Holtom was very cute as the young Oliver.
All of the crowd scenes dazzled, choc-a-bloc with busy-ness, movement and a dazzling array of props. The park scene was particularly colourful and mesmerizing, a veritable feast for the eyes.
The stage, the set, the music, the performance, the cast, everything about this musical was delightful……… a wonderful night out. If you are planning a trip to London, I would highly recommend you go along to Drury Lane and see it.
Adventures in Retail
by Grainne
We made our way to Oxford Street on the Friday afternoon and hit the shops with determination. Aine fared better than I did; we separated, as is our usual modus operandi, and when our paths crossed again she was balancing several bags on either arm.
The thing about shopping in any European city these days is the sameness of the stores, branches of all the big chains are everywhere now, so it’s hard to find women’s clothing stores that are different without being overly expensive. Oxford Street is no exception, John Lewis is really the only store we don’t have in Dublin or the likes of Galway and Cork now.
Harrods, that opulent showcase for luxury goods, is always worth a visit. Aine and I love their food hall and can be found with our noses practically pressed to the glass at the confectionary and cakes counter. That said, we passed by as our time was limited on this trip and there were more shops vying for our attention.
At the end of our allotted time, about an hour and a half, Aine had amassed several more bags while I had three pairs of tights and a pair of shoes in a single Marks and Spencers bag.
We’d intended visiting Camden Market but just couldn’t reach on it, timewise, over the weekend. Another time, definitely as we’ve heard it’s worth the effort, featuring alternative and vintage fashion and works from emerging designers. For those with more eclectic tastes perhaps, but we’d have liked to savour a new shopping experience.
On the Sunday we struck out for the Bluewater Shopping Centre which is in Kent and a 25-minute drive from Central London. This is the second-largest shopping centre in the UK with 330 shops and services. It’s spread over two floors and features branches of all of the usual high street stores, restaurants and cafes. Marks and Spencer, John Lewis and the House of Fraser are the anchor stores and there were two foodcourts that I could see. Importantly too, there are plenty of toilets!
The exchange rate at present means extra good value for shoppers and again Aine (as if she needed any justification) took full advantage to stock up her Spring/Summer wardrobe. A particularly nice buy was a lovely white mac with taupe-coloured polka dots at 45 pounds which she bought in Marks and Spencer. I, on the other hand came away with two packs of wipes and some face cream from Boots. Part of that was due to Marks and Spencer balking at my Northern Ireland sterling. A sales assistant insisted on calling a superviser to check the notes were legal tender and acceptable (!!!) but after calling for one five times with no result, I gave up, took back my money (which had been accepted elsewhere all weekend) and left my would-be purchases behind.










